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Plans are afoot…


After some discussion Sibylle and I settled on traveling to Lake Titicaca from La Paz in the morning. Our choice of trips means unfortunately that Shane and Eiza won’t be able to join us, but we’ll see them again by Christmas Eve. I am excited about visiting Lake Titicaca as I remember seeing a documentary about the floating islands there years ago and thinking that I would love to go there one day but thought the chances were slim. Well here I go. In slightly more worrying news my netbook’s hard drive started making some very ominous noises today and failed to start up once. Running repairs no but not a good sign so early. Very glad I hve bee making daily backups!

Categories: South America

New Bolivian mobile / cell number


I have gotten a SIM card for Viva, a Bolivian mobile network. I will be using this through New Year's Day at least, I suspect.

To reach my number from the States, dial 011 591 606 51644. To reach it from anywhere else dial +591 606 51644. This should work for texts as well as voice calls.

High and not very dry


I am finally home and dry-ish in the very welcoming and Christmas-y Irazoque household in La Paz, Bolivia, after yet another epic 18 hour travelling day stuck on the end of a mostly sleepless party the night before. The warmth of the reception here was extremely comforting after today's trials. 

As for La Paz itself, I arrived near midnight and the weather immediately struck me as very London-in-November. About 6C and raining heavily (I guess this is where I start experiencing the wet season in the Andes). Speaking of the Andes, despite the fact this is easily 3 or 4 times higher in altitude than I've ever been, I seem to be handling it well bar the odd light-headedness and the fact that my voice seems to have dropped an octave. The mate I was offered when I first got in seemed to sort me out, and I didn't need to escalate to coca tea. But time will tell, I suppose, and all advice points to taking it easy for the first 24 hours at least. I can't wait to get out and explore this city, but I sense that will be a Tuesday job. 

I will have to start making a call soon on what the last half of January will look like – will I spend it in Peru, or will I bug out back to Argentina and explore Patagonia and spend more time getting to know Buenos Aires? I suppose I may have to see how things pan out. 

Getting better all the time

December 20, 2009 1 comment

Though I am still in Santa Cruz airport, I am in better shape than before. To wit:

  1. I have an actual booked and confirmed place on a flight at 9:30PM, and have already checked in. Albeit, I have already seen Shane and Eiza and Sibylle as they pegged it through to catch the (2nd) flight I couldn't make it onto, and it will mean that when all is said and done I will have spent nearly 8 hours in this airport today. BUT I am getting a flight out tonight, avoiding the worst case scenario of having to overnight in Santa Cruz. So what if I get in 2.5hrs after the others. It doesn't mean much in the scheme of things. 
  2. I found a cashpoint I hadn't tried yet and it gave me merciful Bolivianos. Thank Christ. I was down to 20 Bolivianos (less than $3) and didn't have enough cash to try to call my bank to ask what was going on (my mobile is still dead). It keeps me in beer and pizza and means that if I have to get a cab in La Paz then so be it. 
  3. I passed the afternoon with a very helpful Bolivian lady named Mary Carmen and thus saved myself from getting too wound up about the situation. 
  4. When all is said and done today was always going to be a travel day, with nothing particular accomplished. I have just reinforced that. And who can say what the WiFi / internet situation will be in La Paz? This may be my last chance for a while to go online. Silver linings and all that. Just wish my phone would start working.

Some photos from Buenos Aires


While I am stuck in Santa Cruz airport with no money, telephone or guaranteed escape plan, but still possessing all-important WiFi and a full-ish netbook battery, I thought I would point out a few of the photos I took in Buenos Aires over the last week.

Mercado de San Telmo

"For Love, Use a Condom" (San Telmo)
I think the texture on this wall and the way it adds depth to the mural that would otherwise have looked flat. Fantastic!

La Boca- Laundry
Much as I tried to despise the obvious faked up nature of "El Caminito" (read: tourist trap) I had to admit I still relished the opportunity to photograph the bright primary-colour houses littering the area. 

More of my Buenos Aires photos can be found here: 

Stuck (for now) in Santa Cruz, Bolivia

December 20, 2009 3 comments

Well it had to happen sooner or later, my first utter travel FAIL has occurred a week and a bit into my trip. I missed the connection to La Paz in Santa Cruz and I am having a total airport-mare. I have had to put myself on the waiting list for the 7pm and 9pm flights but with no guarantee of getting on. Also none of the mobile networks here allow roaming with my SIM card and there are no SIM cards for sale in the terminal, so I have no phone. Also none of my cash/credit cards seem to be working and I can't call NatWest to clear what I assume is a fraud-related block on my accounts. I have about $25 USD in cash, and that's it. 

In an ideal world I will run into Shane, Eiza and Sibylle later on when their connecting flight arrives. What a complete fucking pain. Still, it beats getting stabbed.

Under pressure


It's 6:45AM. I have just returned to my hotel room. In 45 minutes a car comes to take me to the airport. Is this enough time to shower, finish packing, and check out? It had better be. Bolivia here we come!

A simple plan


As I write this we are on our way from Pierce and Laura’s wedding in Quilmes to the reception at some unknown place 40km away. The reception starts at 10pm. My flight to Bolivia is exactly 12 hours later. I am sure there is a flaw with this plan, but I can’t put my finger on it.

Tropical thunderstorm hits Quilmes


Nothing like torrential rains and flash floods to ruin a spot of Christmas shopping.

Diet? What diet?


I am just sitting down to lunch at La Brigada, meant to be one of the top parillas (grills) and therefore best steaks in Buenos Aires. Salivating already!