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Archive for January, 2010

In Uyuni, preparing to tour the Salar

January 8, 2010 Leave a comment

We arrived in Uyuni today after a harrowing 7 hour bus journey
involving two tire changes (one to change the original tire, the
second to put the original, knackered tire back on) and many extra
passengers in the aisles, including children and pet dogs, and some
Quechua peasants who hadn´t seen the inside of a shower in a few
weeks. The road was dirt all the way, and had been washed away at
several points. Our bags were on the top of the bus, which was
somewhat concerning as we passed through a hail storm. What was more
concerning is that we were travelling with the same company that had
last night taken a corner at speed and tipped the bus over on its
side, scaring everyone to death, requiring another truck to winch it
upright, and continuing the rest of the journey, at least 2 hours,
with no headlights. Genius.

We arrived in Uyuni, at the edge of the great salt flats, with no
small relief. We had to settle for a random hotel ($7 per night) but
that´s ok as we take off first thing Friday for a 3 day tour of the
salt flats and the coloured lakes. I will therefore probably be out of
all contact (my phone doesnt work in this town either) until at least
Sunday or Monday. But I will in all probability be returning with some
very full, satisfied memory cards from my cameras. Can´t wait!

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Visiting the mines of Cerro Rico, Potosi

January 6, 2010 Leave a comment

Today we finally got around to taking the tour of the Cerro Rico mines. Various folks on the road had said that this was simultaneously a horrific and an essential experience to have. Other folks had said that you didn't know Potosi until you knew the mines, so we put all excuses aside and went for it.

I was game for it, but slightly anxious due to my faint knowledge of the 470-year history of the mines and the number of people (estimated at 8 million) who had perished inside the great Cerro Rico mountain during the colonial period of Spanish rule. Today around 25 miners a year die in accidents within these mines (compare that to 45 a year in all of the USA for all mines nationwide). And many more die from post-mine complications such as lung disease.

Our tour began at 8:45AM. We were led from the hostel up to a waiting bus, which whisked us up to the foot of the massive, imposing Cerro Rico, home of all the storied riches of Potosi.

There the tour company had a staging area where we were all to change into "miner's kit" consisting of gum boots, over trousers, jacket, hardhat, and web belt with battery for the headlamp. Then it was off to the miner's market, where our guide, Efraim, proceeded to throw sticks of dynamite at us, hold the sticks over an open flame, hold them in his mouth, and generally try to reassure us that without the requisite detonators and fuses, the dynamite was relatively safe.

So we all bought "gift bags" of dynamite+detonator+fuse together with a 2L bottle of soft drink, to give to the miners we encountered along the way. We were also encouraged to by big bags of coca leaves, at 5 Bolivianos a go, partly to help us through the mines, but partly to give out handfuls to miners as gifts.

Next stop was the processing plants, where the extracted rock from the mines was separated into silver, zinc, lead, and waste product. In a good load the waste product was only 85%, and that wasn't so common these days. The processing plants were mud huts with real Rube Goldberg devices separating out the various minerals through use of different chemical solvents – including several open tanks full to the brim with liquid cyanide, which was splashing out onto the floor every once in a while. We saw the extracted product, which didn't look like much, but I suppose it's enough to keep 120 families, and 5000 miners working in appalling conditions.

Finally it was D-Day, H-Hour, and we made our way slowly up the side of Cerro Rico to the entrance of the Candelaria mine, which has been in use since Conquistador days. Just as we were about to enter the mine, a motorised mine car train shot out of the entrance and missed us by inches. We entered, excited and nervous.

What followed was an incursion into the mines that took us 800m into the mountain and 55m down from the entrance – 4 levels. The passageways varied from spacious near the entrance to downright cramped – on several occasions we were on hands and knees and even then our backs were scraping the ceiling. And the passageways by which you made your descents and ascents were often little more than slanted tunnels, which due to the helmets and headlamps getting in the way, often meant you couldn't really see more than a few feet ahead of you. Dust filled the air, and rubble from those above you cascaded down around you. Soon you were filthy, hands caked in dust and grime, and you wondered if it were worth it to use your precious water for cleanliness rather than thirst. All the while, lungs bursting from the closeness of the air, the dust, and the all-pervading altitude – the entrance to Candelaria being around 4300m up – the highest I had ever been.

But this was all part of the experience, and any self-pity any of us might have indulged in was completely erased by the knowledge – and regular reminders – that generations of Potosians -almost all Quechuas – had spent the majority of their adolescent and adult lives in these very trying conditions.

We met a number of miners, from a 14-year-old boy to a 45-year-old veteran who had been working the mines since age 10. He was definitely at the upper end of the age range of the miners, as most of his contemporaries would have retired by then, either voluntarily or through the onset of lung disease. These were gruff fellows, but became friendly after a gift of dynamite and cola.

Our last stop was to pay a visit to Tio ("Uncle") also known as El Diablo, though in a "Lord of the Underground" sense rather than a Prince of Evil sense. This was a life-sized, clay figure wearing miner's gumboots, with an open mouth in which cigarettes could be placed, and an immense phallus – in this case broken, one hopes not as an omen. Every Friday and on special occasions, offerings of coca leaves, alcohol and other mining necessities are placed on and around the icon. Every mine in Cerro Rico has at least one, if not more of these icons. I offered a few coca leaves, just to be on the safe side. I seem to have made it back, so I guess it can't have hurted.

We have bought our bus tickets to Uyuni tomorrow, as apparently have the entire rest of this hostel. With luck this means we should be able to start a 4-day tour of the Uyuni salt flats and the coloured lakes on Friday, finishing Monday. Then for me it is looking like a large trek up back through Oruro, La Paz, and then onto Peru. My whole planned itinerary has been turned on its arse: rather than 2 weeks in Bolivia and 4 in Peru, it looks to end up the other way round. I'll be lucky to get Cuzco and Macchu Picchu in before I have to head for Lima and my flight back to Buenos Aires.

Categories: Photography, South America, Travel Photography Tags: , , , , , ,

Off into the Potosi mines

January 6, 2010 Leave a comment

We’ve bought our dynamite, detonators, fuses, bags of coca leaves, and soft drinks as gifts for the miners. Now it’s off for two hours in the pit of hell!

Categories: South America

First impressions of Potosi

January 5, 2010 Leave a comment

I am interested in the process by which first impressions are made. It is difficult to judge South American towns and cities accurately until you've had some time to get used to them. The experience of arriving at every new South American town or city inevitably involves a journey through the poverty-stricken slums on the outskirts, usually ending at a chaotic bus terminal in only slightly more salubrious surroundings, and the net result of this process is that the visitor has to struggle not to immediately declare: "What a shithole." In some cases that judgement turns out to be accurate. 

Not, I am glad to say, in the case of Potosi. Though it is certainly faded from its silver-mining colonial boomtown days of the 16th and 17th centuries, there is still a mountain of character and charm in its layout, architecture, and pace of life. The pace of life has to be slow, at this altitude nothing happens at speed. 

I bumped into Peter Hahndorf again, my old friend from the Saltmine days, and we're potentially going to be doing a mine tour in the Cerro Rico mountain which looms over this town later today, if we are feeling up to it. I am a little out of sorts, though whether due to the altitude or the llama burger I ate last night is up for debate. 

My netbook hard drive is making funny noises again, certainly glad I have a backup. I am already at 32GB of photos and only halfway through my trip, with several photographic big hitters left in my itinerary (Uyuni salt flats, coloured lakes, Macchu Picchu to name a few). Hope the netbook does the distance!
Categories: Photography, South America, Travel Photography Tags: , , , ,

Sucre’s Mercado Central

January 4, 2010 1 comment

I had a visit to the Mercado Central this morning to grab a saltena (a kind of an empanada with meat or chicken, gravy and potatoes inside) and to see the market on a working day. I had been there on Saturday but it was a sad affair then, with the odd Quechua farmer selling a handful of raggedy beets. Today was a much more lively affair, as a lot of folks from the outskirts come into town on a Monday to get shopping, bank business etc done, and the market was in full swing. Still can't quite get over the heaps of unrefrigerated beef and chicken being sold, but I guess that's what you get when you're ordering beef at $3 a kilo (!).  

I am off to Potosi shortly, which amongst other things is the highest city of its size in the world at an average of 4000m or 13100ft. The Irazoque family kindly furnished me with some altitude pills, and I think my mate de coca consumption rate will skyrocket there. In Potosi it will definitely be a case of slow and steady wins the race. 
Categories: Photography, South America, Travel Photography Tags: , , , ,

Back from Tarabuco with photos

January 3, 2010 Leave a comment

We headed out to the Sunday handicrafts market in Tarabuco this morning, driven the 60-odd km in a Quechua taxi. Once there, John, who had fine memories of a visit three years ago, immediately remarked that it seemed far less busy than he remembered. We wandered the market, which was meant to have some fine textiles on offer, with an increasing sense of disappointment as we realised that the market has shrunk significantly in size and now all the vendors seemed to have the same mass-produced, uninspiring crap on offer. Not to mention the number of persistent, repetitive, and downright goddamned annoying street hawkers and beggars. 

Our only bright spot of the morning was sitting down for a mate de coca at a no-name cafe on the square run by a very friendly young woman who had her two kids running around underfoot. As I sat down it became apparent that I was sitting in the "road" the young boy, Ruben-Martin, was using for his toy truck. So I ended up passing the truck back and forth with him to the point of exhaustion, until he decided my camera was a better toy. He was over the moon to see himself on the camera screen. Soon enough I was taking pictures of the whole family. 

Afterwards we decamped back to Sucre and had the taxi driver drop us off at a posh restaurant, El Huerto, that was meant to be good for Sunday lunch. As we entered we passed the Bishop of Sucre (apparently) and once inside the very swish garden setting, complete with picnic tables and umbrellas, it was clear we were among the Great and the Good of Sucre. A jug of Pimm's would not have looked out of place. Lots of big sunglasses and air kissing. But the food was ace, and still cheap (under 200 Bs, or 20 quid, for the three of us). Siesta after but I am out now for a final dinner with John and Lisa.
Categories: Photography, South America, Travel Photography Tags: , , ,

Feeling macho, off to the markets

January 3, 2010 Leave a comment

First of all yesterday’s post should have been titled “First photos from Sucre“, not “Potosi”. I guess I was already thinking ahead to the next place on my itinerary.

Yesterday afternoon while up on the hill in Recoleto enjoying the view, I bumped into a pair of interesting Brits, John and Lisa. John lives over here and is a junior doctor doing volunteer work. He used to be in the air force which is where he met Lisa, who’s over for a visit before she ships back over to the UK and eventually Afghanistan to help with community development work. We met for dinner last night and due to the dearth of open restaurants (everyone in Bolivia is having dinner with their folks over New Years weekend) we ended up on Gringo Alley. Not too bad though as the restaurant we found (La Bodega Veija) was a mixed local/gringo affair. I finally got to sample one of the Bolivian national dishes, pique macho, which is basically multiple types of meat intermixed with lots of grilled onions, bell peppers, chillies, and french fries, all soaking in a picante sauce. Topped with a boiled egg. Heart attack on a plate. I must admit it defeated me. And the chocolate fondue which followed was not my idea.

To recover we are doing a mini trip today of about 60km over to the town of Tarabuco which is famed for its Sunday market, showcasing indigenous handicrafts from this region. The textiles are supposed to be very well crafted and it is just possible I may actually start buying stuff to bring back with me. Space is tight in my pack though so it will have to be good. Plus I have yet to buy any ethnic tat so this would be a big step for me. 

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First photos from Sucre

January 3, 2010 Leave a comment

These are just from this afternoon. More to come tomorrow. What a charming little city. 

Side note: even wi-fi in the hotel is utterly useless, like 128K. No chance of uploading any of the copious video I have taken. Didn’t realise how rubbish the internet would be here.

Categories: Photography, South America, Travel Photography Tags: , , ,

First casualty of the trip

January 2, 2010 Leave a comment

Somehow in my packing this morning I managed to leave behind my Lee graduated filters for my camera. I guess they are in the Irazoques’ house in La Paz. These are not cheap items and would definitely have come in handy on the salt flats of Uyuni. Damnit. Careless.

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Leaving La Paz for a new adventure

January 2, 2010 Leave a comment

Today I am finally departing La Paz, which has been my base for almost 2 weeks now, to head off on my own for the final 4(ish) weeks of my South American adventure. I can't thank Shane and Eiza enough for inviting me to come stay, and of course Eiza's family for hosting us with such a warm welcome. I ate well, and had as good a Christmas away from my own family as could have been wished. So I have a mix of emotions: happiness that I am finally setting off on my own (the way I travel best) and a touch of sadness that the "friends" portion of the trip has come to a close. Ah well, I never have too much trouble making new friends on the road.

Looking back, I haven't done much "tourism" in La Paz at all but I have no doubt I have had a more meaningful, fulfilling time here than many of the backpackers who never leave the gringo quarter in the centre. There are still one or two things I would have liked to have done and seen (ergo the Valley of the Moon and the bike ride down the Death Road) but there's always next time. I am not sure whether or not I will pass back through here on the way to Peru. Time will tell. 

So I am shortly to board a flight to Sucre, which is heralded as a beautiful colonial city with oodles of charm. In that spirit, and anticipating the rigours of the near future in my mooted tour of the salt flats of Uyuni, I have decided to treat myself a bit and spring for the Hotel Independencia in Sucre, which has a great reputation as a real class act with bags of character. Why not, eh?

I realise also that I have been remiss in keeping my map up to date. Here's the updated version. I love how Google Maps has 3 different cities called La Paz visible in its map. Ooops. 

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